Saturday, 13 April 2013

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT - 1981/1982

Using images collected through primary and secondary, I used the same methods for production as in 1980. The same collage principles apply, with heavy use of text and imagery to upkeep the postmodern aesthetic of the 80s. 

Each page is based on a different topic, and the aesthetics specifically relate to the images and body copy; engaging the reader and ensuring they are aware of the context behind the content. 


As seen throughout the publication, hand rendered style lines are drawn over images and around particular pieces of information. This is again up-keeping with the aesthetics of scrapbooking, and adding depth to the page. 



Textured papers have been used to create a hand made feel to the publication. These stock images mixed with the font Impact Label and Impact Label Revered, give both a type writer style font, and a sticker aesthetic. This has been used to mimmic tape (shown above).






The same principles have been used throughout using a variety of fonts; Genuine, First Home, Brain Flower, First Home, Impact label/reversed and Avenir.



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Using the research collected, I wrote body copy for 1981 which was spread throughout that particular year in the publication. This can be seen below.

1981:

1981 was an exciting year for those in the UK and the USA at the time. First off, the President of the United States, Ronald Reagan decided to equip the nation with a neutron bomb, as precaution for future wars, whilst ‘Crack’, the synthetic drug appeared on the market in the US, and was fashionable with the ‘Yuppies’ and music industry at the time.

Prince Charles and Princess Diana married on the 29th of July, causing an optimistic and patriotic future for Western society and the Royal family alike. This was positive news for the UK, and she became an icon of patriotism and fashion.

Postmodern Graphic Design began to emerge more throughout the decade with more publications on fashion, music, culture and society being brought out every year. Neville Brody, a notable Graphic Designer in his own right became Art Director, Typographer and Head Designer of The Face; a British fashion, culture and music magazine that was first introduced in 1980 by Nick Logan. The Face was famous for influencing style and hair trends throughout the 80s and 90s, especially the ‘New Romantic’ movement. Art and Design were popular throughout this period with artists such as Jean-Michel Basquait and Andy Warhol being featured in exhibitions worldwide.

Even though the 80s was predominantly postmodern, a book released by Tom Wolfe was released entitled “From Bauhaus to Our House”, showing minimalism in a new light, to a new audience, ensuring enthusiasts and fans of modern design, that minimalism isn’t dead, with the overtake of colour and raw aesthetics.

Fashion trends continued to flourish with the introduction of Vivienne Westwood, who would change fashions influence forever. She designed clothes for the New Romantic movement leaders, Adam Ant and Bow Wow Wow, and Armani causing a fuss in the movie industry. Dynasty, the American TV show was released at a time when the female role had changed rapidly encouraging fashion trends to remain strong year after year, being supported by fashion photography and Margaret Thatcher’s influence on formal wear.

1981 marked the year MTV went live globally, which would inspire future artists, fashion designers’ future work.

Giorgio Armani introduces Emporio Armani, Armani Junior and Armani Jeans in 1981. Armani Jeans is a bridge-line collection of denim-related clothing. It is said that the colours used for his two new lines which were released are much more diverse than those used in his higher end lines.

In the 1980’s his collections were smart, classy, simple and used a variety of high-end luxury fabrics and tweeds for his tailoring. These spin off lines were notably cheaper than his couture lines, which were often featured, in high-end magazines.  By the end of 1980, worldwide annual sales reached $120m and looked for a positive, expanding future.

A deal was signed with L’Oreal for the creation of a signature fragrance, and American Gigalo transformed the face of Armani for the future allowing prosperity.

In 1981, Armani’s initials combined with an imperial eagle, formed a trademark logo, and appeared on jeans, t-shirts, shoes and sportswear. Armani was one of the first fashion designers to differentiate the brand using an embellished logo. Andy Warhol who was at his prime in the 80s created a silkscreened portrait of Armani himself.

He won GQ’s men’s Style Award for Best Fashion Designer, watched his first dresses walk down the autumn/winter runway as well as opening the first Emporio Armani boutique in the city it was founded in; Milan.

As the decade went on, he won more awards, created more Armani lines, including a eyewear and a home ware collection. In 1987 he designed outfits for Brian De Palma’s ‘The Untouchables’, and was later nominated for an Oscar for Costume Design. 

Founded: 1975, Milan
First in Vogue: 1977
Labels:
Giorgio Armani, Armani Prive, Emporio Armani, Emporio Armani EA7, Armani Exchange, Armani Collezioni Mani, Giorgio Armani A. Milano Borgonuovo 21, Giorgio Armani, Le Collezioni Giorgio Armani Classico
Vogue Covers: 6

“He has created a unique style, one that you can recognize without a label,” his fellow Italian designer Carla Fendi said, way back in 1981.

The New Romantic movement peaked in the 80s, with the new wave music scene that was associated with the trend. However some artists such as Adam and the Ants, flaunted New Romantic fashions, but played postmodern punk. Vivienne Westwood notably designed clothes for artists influenced by the fashion trend at the time.

The aim of being a New Romantic is express yourself, be unique, be noticed and to be seen as ‘different’ or ‘cool’, opposed to those following main stream fashion trends.

New Romanticism at this time is said to stem from the nightclub Billy’s in London. It ran Bowie and Roxy Music nights towards the end of the 70s, and in 1979 relocated to the Blitz due to the growing popularity of the music and culture behind being a New Romantic.

The Blitz became known for it’s colourful and extrovert fashionistas, or ‘Blitz Kids’, which “greatly contrasted with the ripped/offensive t-shirts and jeans associated with the punk movement which was also around at the time. Both sexes experimented with androgynous clothing and heavy make-up.

The fashions worn throughout this movement are said to be inspired by numerous influences; glam fashion of the 70s, science fiction and The Rocky Horror Picture show, Vivienne Westwood and Hollywood.

Dynasty was a 1980s fantasy soap opera, which promoted fashions such as shoulder pads, costume jewelry and big hair.  It was a time when luxury was an expense, but anyone who wanted to be someone, and be noticed delved into the trap of luxury purchases, designer suits and credit cards, enabling them to fund the 80s lifestyle.

Fine jewelry and costume jewelry was worn at all times of day, and became a part of mainstream fashion. Real diamonds, fake diamonds, pearls and gold were thrown about lavishly.

Over the top fashions came from Dynasty; use of bright colours, such as fuchsia, royal blue and see green, chiffon, silk and feathers were often used, and underneath the dresses was covetable underwear and lingerie. French knickers and one piece suits were most favoured around this time period and were seen as sexy, feminine and chic, something which had not been seen and shown before.

Big shoulders meant getting noticed, and identity in the workplace began to shine through as the decade progressed. Wider cut sleeves and large shoulder pads were used to give a masculine, authoritarian look, which was balanced out with feminine fabrics and rolled sleeves. This look was also seen on Margaret Thatcher throughout her time in office and beyond.

To accompany the look, accessories were important. Shawls were seen as necessary to complete an outfit, with instructional leaflets to go along with them, showing dozens of ways they can be worn. Chanel and Louis Vuitton were two popular bag designers at the time, and it was common to have the classic Louis Vuitton luggage. Brightly coloured tights were re introduced in the 80s, some being finished with flocking or embellishments.

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Body Copy:


1982:

1982 started with a bang! The Falklands war ended, with a British Victory thanks to the leadership of Thatcher at the time. However, in mainland Europe, Italy won the World Cup, whilst Princess of Monaco and style icon Grace Kelly died tragically in a car crash.

Dynasty, the American soap opera was first aired in Italy, giving influence to European fashion, whilst adapting it at the same time for future series’.

Cult classics E.T. and Rambo arrived on our cinema screens allowing for a new revolution of cinema to erupt, with Return of the Jedi, Scarface and The A Team to be released soon after. 


Grace Kelly was an actress, a wife, a mother and an icon in her own right; for her acting and her fashion taste.

She became one of the classiest fashion icons of all time, with 40 years experience in the spotlight. Every item she has worn has been noted, and photographed at some point, from her wedding dress to clothes she wore as a child. A collection of some of her personal collection has been shown at the V&A for the 30th anniversary of the death.

She was characteristically elegant, whilst always being dressed appropriately. Grace Kelly was often seen in lace, silk and intricately detailed formal wear. She has a very clean, cut and polished style, which never changed, throughout her career.


Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is a 60-year-old French Marquis who designs clothes and listens to grime music. He has always been ‘out there’ with his advertising and designs; in the early 1970s, along with photographer Oliviero Toscani, he devised an advertising campaign blending sex and religious sloganeering that scandalized the Vatican.
A decade later, Castelbajac turned the Italian label Iceberg into a postmodern, pop-art fashion house, selling a bunch of hijacked Snoopy, Daffy Duck, and Felix the Cat imagery to British fan’s, known as JC de Castelbajac for Iceberg. He has been described as the “King of cartoon couture”.

“Everyone goes on about punk and Amazonian 80s power-dressing, but people forget that designers like Moschino and you were doing this whole pop-art, sloganeering thing.
When I think about my generation--Fiorucci, Moschino and even Thierry Mugler in a way--they were trying to say something with, not against, fashion. The pop-art and the fashion I identified with was a link to a beautiful window of shining happiness, but what people forget is that when I designed those Iceberg sweaters, all that brightness was linked to very dark electro music.”


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