Saturday, 13 April 2013

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT - 1987/1988/1989


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1987 started with a negative outlook on society, with the Catholic Church condemning all forms of artificial procreation, and Wall St stock exchanging plummeting 22.6% in 1 day. It was called “Black Monday” and affected stock exchanges worldwide. Not a positive start to the economy seeing as the world was already in recession.

Artist Andy Warhol died at the start of the year; a major loss for the art world, and many commemorative exhibitions began to take shape.

However, the Erasmus programme was launched, meaning students could participate in international exchange schemes whilst at University. This was an encouragement for many students at the time to carry out a degree, with the hope of being cultured and educated abroad. It was a success, and is still in tact today.

John Galliano (featured on this page) won designer of the year for his innovative designs. Katharine Hamnett continued to make statements through fashion, surprising the beholder and leaving them either somewhat bewildered or amused. In ’87 with the launch of boxes of boxer shorts, condoms were placed in each box. An impacting statement about clothing, underwear and ties to sexuality.

Elle was also published in Italy, allowing European fashions to be viewed more freely, influencing trends worldwide. Anna Wintour, to be editor in chief of Vogue Magazine launches House & Garden monthly magazine. It was one of the first high end, luxury interior and exterior design magazines on the market at the time.

1987 was an experimental year for music with the introduction of Techno and Acid House, stemming from the London nightclub scene.

The Harris Tweed collection came together to celebrate Westwood’s obsession with royalty and traditional English clothing. The ‘Harris Tweed’ fabric used is hand-woven in the Western Isles of Scotland, and is renowned for being used for traditional clothing and tailoring.

Vivienne Westwood claimed the fabrics used were like “jewels”, due to the vibrant, rich and royal colours used. The collection was British country, with a classic Westwood twist; detailing, embellishments and unique textiles. 

Her love of Harris Tweed is shown in her branding, using a crown emblem against the fabric. It is now used on her accessories, shoes, bags and clothing a like.

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Body Copy:

Franco Moschino landed himself in the Fashion hall of fame when he died in 1994, with his astounding impact on fashion. Like other designers who soared throughout the 80s he sent political messages through his work deliberately deterring from traditional codes and values of couture fashion. Moschino aimed to shock the viewer, capturing them into his vision.

Moschino once said that "fashion is something you can laugh about forever, but in the end, it's the most difficult thing to laugh at because people take it so seriously."

In 1988 he launched the Cheap and Chic line. A more affordable luxury item, with vividly printed textiles and playful cuts.

1988 brought the Soviet troops home from Afghanistan, after being withdrawn, whilst the Iran-Iraq war came to an end. With a positive start to the year, and a new term in office, George Bush was elected President of the United States.

Two major events took place in 1988, the world conference on AIDs and the concert held at Wembley Stadium, London, in honor of Nelson Mandela. These two events proved a change on societies view on topics such as AIDs and soon more events and charities began to arise, raising funds for the same, or a similar cause.

A year after Andy Warhol’s death, Jean-Michel Basquait also dies, which was seen as a tremendous loss for the art industry at the time, after he had made such a lasting impression on society, culture and art lovers over his time as an artist.

However, ’88 was busy for fashion. Moschino launched the Cheap and Chic line, and Christian Lacoix launched his first collection. A year after launching House & Garden, Anna Wintour became Director of Vogue USA, whilst in Italy Carla Sozzani took the same position.

Public Enemy embarked on an advertising war with hip-hop, whilst at the same time the second summer of love emerged, mimicking the 60s psychedelic season based on ecstasy and techno music.

Working Girl was the era’s answer to Cinderella, with a 30-year-old woman searching for business opposed to love. Competing against the boss, two women show their assertion on how to get ahead at work.

Fashion played a different role in this film, with the two main female roles dressed oppositely but for the same purpose. Desperate to win a job, Tess is portrayed as sweet, young and na├»ve, compared to brash Katherine. Tess was shown in pastel colours, with loose flowing fabrics, compared to Katherine’s power suit, thinking you had to dress and act masculine and authoritative to secure the work.

She even quoted Coco Chanel’s famous words of wisdom in a bid to back up her opinion; “dress shabbily and they notice the dress; dress impeccably and they notice the woman”. This film proved shoulder pads, smart tailoring and strict office wear were always needed in the workplace to succeed.

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Body Copy:

In 1989, Prada launched her first ready-to-wear collection for women. The praise it received was amazing for the same, seeing as the dress were in complete contrast to the fashions and trends of the late 80s. “They contained plain and strict lines” whilst remaining conscious of “highly curved designs”.

Prada claims to be inspired by her own wardrobe at time, earthy and raw fabrics, mixed with natural cuts and “hippyish” clothes. A journalist at the time commented on the fashions stating, “They were uniforms meant for the slightly disfranchised”

After the use of natural fabrics, Prada launched a second, less expensive line, called “Miu Miu”. Most fashionista’s are however unaware that the name spiraled from Prada’s nickname. The fashions were created with stylish, clean lines on fine, natural materials with “exemplary craftsmanship”, and due to the high quality of her garments, she won the Council of Fashion Designers of America International Award slightly later in 1993.

1989 saw the end of the decade with a bang; the Berlin Wall falls, losing culture in one country, but gaining it in another when the Louvre Glass Pyramid was inaugurated in Paris. The Sistine chapel was fully restored, regaining arts, passion, religion and culture worldwide.

Dolce and Gabanna released their first underwear and swimwear lines; this was a time where sexuality was no longer a problem, and women showed off their natural form for business or pleasure; however D&G made their releases at a time when Baywatch had just launched, emphasizing the power of the female form and lycra combined.

Prada made a clothing debut with a women’s ready-to-wear collection, which wasn’t often seen at the time, as haute couture and sub-cultures were heavily in full swing. However this made the transition into the 1990s much simpler and easier for designers such as Prada, as ready-to-wear collections would soon be the new runway line.